The Flight Will Not Wait

My trip here is soon ending.  The plane takes off at 5:15pm and I have promised my family and friends in the States that I will be at the Kansas City airport tomorrow at 5pm when it lands.  

Last week I taught Sustainable Agriculture for just two days so that I could spend one day interviewing doctors and nurses at the Tengeru District Hospital to gather last bits of information for my research.  This semester I will use my research to supplement my thesis of studying how Tanzanians make decisions about treating illness and what needs to be done to improve the health of Tanzania.  Before this project, I will compile the observations I have made about the role of GSC and other NGO's in implementing social services and people's attitudes towards these NGO's.  I will also create a presentation with information about parasites and diseases that are common in Tanzania.  

On Wednesday, a Rockhurst friend who was also volunteering in East Africa met me in Arusha and I gave her a tour of the city that has been my summer home.  We left for Dar es Salaam on Thursday, the first leg of our journey to Zanzibar.  After over two months of service work, we wanted to spend just a few days relaxing before returning just in time for the fall semester.  Zanzibar provided for us an incredible vacation location.  The white sand beaches, crystal blue waters, and Arabian culture made for an enjoyable weekend complete with snorkeling, star-fish, late-night dancing, and Arabic lessons. The 3-day stay was just long enough before coming back to Arusha for last goodbyes.


 It is difficult to leave, but exciting things await for me in the States.  Someday I want to return to Tanzania: when- I do not know, but soon.  Until I know, back to the States I fly! 

Thanks to all who have supported this trip.  I hope you have enjoyed these blogs and experiences that I have shared!

Kwaherini.

Under the African Sky

We worked in another Maasai village last week, this one having a similar environment as the very first one I visited. I woke up every morning to the sounds of birds chirping, trees blowing, our host family beginning their morning chores and the faint sound of a whip snapping the air as some farmer worked to herd his cattle. We vaccinated kuku (chickens) against Newcastle disease in the early mornings, walking from boma (house) to boma with a local mama who will be the volunteer community trainer after we are gone, helping her neighbors vaccinate their kuku every three months. Newcastle disease has no cure, and is the most common disease among chickens in TZ. Fortunately the vaccine is available, inexpensive and effective, reducing the risk of disease from 70% to 10%. GSC's chicken vaccination program is its most successful in terms of follow-up participation and sustainability, in fact GSC's county director is working to expand the program to increase the number of villages and regions it serves. This week alone we vaccinated over 800 chickens in over 100 homes. The community trainers will encourage the neighbors to continue purchasing the vaccine and assist with the vaccination to ensure the kuku are free of the disease.

After these chilly morning walks we returned to our campsite for breakfast. With coffee and chai, we were always served bread with peanut butter, jelly, hard-boiled eggs, bananas, oranges, and maandazi (similar to a fried doughnut). Then myself, and three others went to the village center to teach Sustainable Agriculture while the remaining groups worked on Applied Technology projects like building hafirs or grain storage bins. The students in our class was split 8 to 9, males to females and they were all young to middle-aged farmers. They chose to build a compost pile and a double-dug bed for the class practical, so on Thursday we did both for one of the mamas whom the class selected to help. This mama is extending her vegetable garden and was excited to use the new techniques we taught her in class. Using these Bio-intensive techniques like composting, nurseries, and double-dug beds is more difficult for larger farms, but with careful planning and dedication a gradual transition is possible.

The main crops I saw growing on the hillsides were maize, wheat, flowers, beans, and tobacco. One of my students told me he farms 17 acres with maize, beans, and wheat. A portion of his crop is kept for his family and the rest is sold in the market for income. Planting and harvesting is mostly done by hand or with animals, although it is not uncommon for a few villagers to own their own tractors then rent and share it with others.

One of the major problems for farmers here is water. It rains just a few months out of the year (although more here than in Naitolia, the village I stayed at just before), and much of hillsides are eroding terribly. The BIA method GSC teaches addresses these problem by preparing the soil for better water absorption. Of the projects we worked on this week, I think building the hafirs and a grain storage will be most beneficial for the farmers. Hafirs are low-cost water tanks that collect rain water so it can be stored and used later for crops. The hafirs are 1.5 meters wide and the length varies depending on the amount of available space. GSC built five hafirs during the week and a few other interested farmers were given tarps to build their own. The grain storage unit was constructed by first building a stone and cement foundation, inserting a spout at the bottom to empty the grain. Then we filled a hemp bag with sawdust to hold the shape of the bin, moistened the hemp bag, and plastered on three layers of cement, shaping the final layer until smooth. A lid was shaped out of wire, covered with cement, and placed on top when dried. These bins are approximately 7 foot high and about 1.5 meters in diameter. Many of the farmers do not practice any method of grain storage, instead letting surplus grain sit in the fields or feeding it to livestock. Though surprisingly, there was not a great interest in this bins; we built just one grain storage bin during the week.

Throughout the summer I have been conducting research on the use of herbal and artificial medicines. I have interviewed secondary school students on how they make decisions as to what type they use, as well as village midwives and traditional doctors to learn what illnesses people seek artificial treatments for. I interviewed a midwife at a village dispensary near Olchorovus and learned more about the problem of dust for many people. The midwife told me the primary problems people come to the dispensary with are red eyes and pneumonia- both irritations from walking along the dirt roads, working in the dusty fields, and living in a cool climate. Many people try using herbal medicines first for these and other health problems because they are the less-expensive option. Visiting the dispensary is a last resort if the herbal medicines fail to work.

Every evening after work, a filling dinner, and a group meeting, I brushed my teeth under the African sky, staring at the constellations of the southern hemisphere which I rarely/never see. We gathered around a fire for hours of story-sharing and laughs, then retired to our sleeping bags for a much needed sleep.

1 Daladala + 1 Kuku + 1 semi-Vegetarian = 1 Identity Crisis

I knew from the start that being a vegetarian in Africa would not go without many explanations of why and how. My host-family said they many past volunteers that have housed also were vegetarian, but my mama took no care to hide her disappointment that I would rather not eat meat, especially chicken which was her favorite meat to prepare. My sister bragged about how well her mama prepares chicken and how sad she was I wouldn't try any of the dishes. After the first week of consuming beans as my main source of protein, a source that was provided about once every other day if I was lucky, I decided to transition to a bit more protein-rich diet of pescetarianism. Fish is readily available at local restaurants and my family was glad to take a step closer to their normal diets with having fish once or twice a week. I continued with this diet for about a month, during which I sat through several hour-long lectures by my brother who explained the more natural methods of raising chickens in TZ compared to the US and their support of local farmers who do not use steroids and only feed their chickens seeds and grass. One Sunday afternoon, after sitting through another one of these lectures, I agreed to eating chicken. Right away my brother told his daughter, who told mama, to which her face lit up with joy and she went out to buy a chicken to cook for dinner that same night.

Since my first consumption of the bird, I have eaten it four other times when I have felt confident the bird was allowed to roam about and eat things that a bird would naturally eat. Things changed a bit last night when I visited a friend of the family and he gave me a chicken as a departure gift. As I waited to leave his home, he scrounged his place for a box. I thought, “Why does he need a box? Wouldn't a bag suffice?” After a period of time he came back with a box from the neighbor. Then he disappeared into the kitchen and returned with a knife. I was only half-paying attention and thought he was trying to cut the flaps off of the box. He disappeared again then returned with hemp string- okay, so he couldn't cut the flaps off so instead he would tie the box. The logic didn't make sense but my mind was distracted with the day's events. My friend disappeared again and when he returned he carried a live chicken. Wait...WHAT?! I looked closely at the box and realized he had been cutting air holes in the sides, and the string, as you can guess, was to keep the lid closed. I couldn't help but laugh and ask if it was normal to take a live chicken on the daladala. He laughed only once, slightly confused by my surprise but reassured me it was no big deal. He then proceeded to hold the chicken down, close the flaps and tie the box. Before I could think about what was happening any further, we were out the door and headed towards the road. A crowded daladala came and I was ushered on and handed the tied box with the precious chicken sitting inside. Immediately I imagined the chicken getting disturbed, fluttering in the box, breaking the string and flying around inside this moving vehicle, causing a commotion that the locals would forever remember as the crazy mzungu with the kuku (chicken). I nervously stood with my upper body bent in the cramped daladala, cautiously eying the people around me, trying to gauge their reaction when the chaos should erupt. I was surprised when the daladala reached my station and the string remained securely tied. But I had only felt the chicken shift once in its box., maybe it died from stress, I reasoned. The step out of the van made the box shift a bit again, reassuring me that the bird survived. I walked to my home and opened the kitchen door where mama was preparing dinner. She turned, saw the box I was holding and burst into laughter at the irony of the scene and the events she knew just happened: Mary rode with a chicken on the daladala, a chicken which was destined to be dinner. I joined in her laughter, confused at the events that had happened so quickly. When the laughs finally subsided she cut the string on the box and used it to tie the bird to the leg of the counter where it stayed throughout the night. This morning I watched its slaughter and am anticipating the plucking and cleaning process to happen later today. Then, the body will go into my homemade chicken-noodle soup.

I think I have to temporarily remove my identification as vegetarian.

'Pole,' Ujamaa, and a New Lens

On our first day of Swahili lessons at the beginning of the summer we learned the use of the term 'Pole' (pronounced: poh-lay.) It translates in English to mean 'Sorry' but is used in slightly different situations, most commonly at the end of the day when someone finishes work. It is appropriate to say 'pole' to elders, coworkers, friends, and in passing someone on the street. At first I could not come out from behind my Western lens to understand this term, instead I found it slightly insulting! Having just come from a society that values work and individualism I reasoned that saying 'pole' to someone after a day's work implied that the job was not satisfying to them. Afterall, isn't is a Western ideal to value work? Western societies encourage people to love their work, if not because it is fulfilling but at least because it is an income source, so why should someone say sorry when working is good? I could not understand why this was a normal thing to say. Still, I obliged to saying 'pole' whenever appropriate, despite my resentment towards it.

Over these weeks I have continued thinking about this term, trying to understand the culture values that reinforces it. Today as I walked home from work it finally clicked. The day has been a long one; after teaching, constructing a plant nursery, and passing out certificates we were came back to the office later than usual. Upon return we gathered materials for next week and met with our supervisor for our weekly reports. Halfway through our meeting the other volunteers returned from a village they had worked at all week and we proceeded to exchange greetings and share stories. After our meeting I stayed longer with the supervisor to discuss other matters. It was around 5:00pm when I was finished at the office and well past lunchtime. Dinner would be in four hours and I debated whether it would be worth picking up something. I debated this as I walked downtown to check my host-family's post office box, only to find the post office had closed already. Mentally and physically fatigued, I thought it best to begin the thirty minute walk home. Taking a daladala is always an option, but I find the walk to be refreshing and therapeutic, even when exhausted

There were many people I passed as I walked my usual path, many faces who probably know mine better than I do theirs, being one of the few mzungu that pass by everyday. There was the occasional friendly greeting equivalent to a “Hello” or “How are you?”and I offered my own greeting in return. My long strides carried me past several people including one woman who also appeared to be exhausted from the day's work. She wore a beautiful red patterned dress, gold earrings and a white scarf over her head, her face had begun to wrinkle from years spent working. She called to me the more formal greeting of “Hujambo?” to which I replied “Sijambo.” Instead of ending with this as most greetings do, she continued with “Pole, Mama!” (Mama is named to anyone who appears older than 18). I blushed in embarrassment at first thinking that my exhaustion was so visible for another to see it and offer sympathy. Then I realized that saying 'pole' to another is not the same as offering a consolation for having to work. It is another behavior that reflects the ideal of Ujamaa, or familyhood, that the first President Nyerere instilled in Tanzanian society. In TZ, saying 'pole' to someone creates a bond of compassion that connects the two as family members. For Western societies saying sorry (and really meaning it) is usually reserved for close friends and one's biological family, and would rarely be offered as a sincere greeting for a stranger.

Perhaps it was my fatigue that was affecting my perspective, but something about the way she said this made everything click and I could have hugged her for saying 'Pole' to me. With the Western lens removed and a new perspective of 'pole,' I gained a much clearer view of Tanzanian culture and the influence of Ujamaa. This mama knew nothing about my day, where I came from, or why I am here, but she still offered the expression of compassion that unites Tanzanians in a familyhood.

In reply I said the customary thanks and returned the compassion with “pole na wewe” (sorry and to you). She smiled, said thank-you, and my stride continued to carry me away from her. Just like that, we lived out the Ujamaa philosophy that continues to thrive in Tanzanians, almost forty years since Nyerere's presidency.

Garden Today, Dinner Tomorrow

This past week I put to use everything my parents have ever taught me about farming and gardening. I taught bio-intensive agriculture at a vocational school to students ages 18-20. The school has different areas of study for students to select as their focus such as sewing, hotel and restaurant management and cooking. The school sat in a gated area as common for most buildings Arusha. Within the gates are four buildings for classrooms, bathrooms, a teacher's lounge, and office. A large garden lay behind the buildings where each class was responsible for planting and maintaining its own plots. All of the crops are grown for the school to use either in the cooking classes or for the occasional lunch that is served. Since it is a vocational school students attend either a morning session until 2pm or the afternoon session, beginning at 3pm. Therefore the garden was filled with plants the school uses most often: onions, corn, zucchini, lettuce, and other vegetables native to Tanzania. Overall the garden looked to be thriving, but it was in need of some upkeep; the sides of the plots had fallen and weeds were beginning to grow up in between the vegetables. The headmistress explained later that the students are usually too tired to have energy to spend more time in the garden. Some, she said, have only the bread and chai during the 11am break which serves as both their breakfast and lunch. Then, after class, they must return home for chores and other responsibilities so they do not have the time and energy to care for both the garden and their home duties. I was thrilled to be there to introduce new gardening methods that would help them save time in the long-run and improve both the quality and quantity of their corp yields.

The lesson plan for teaching bio-intensive agriculture (BIA) goes as follows:

• All about BIA: definition, features, and benefits

• Composting
• Double-dug beds
• Companion planting
• Crop rotation
• Plant nurseries
• Pest management and natural solutions
• Garden record keeping and maintenance

While these basic concepts are not new to me (mostly thanks to dad and mom), the Tanzanian methods of achieving these were a learning process. For example, using banana leaves as the shade cover in the nursery is not an option in the states (unfortunately for us). The students had many good questions, especially about using natural solutions instead of chemicals on plants. I was able to answer these only with the help of a certain wizened and well-learned GSC staff member who had spent years working with agriculture. We spent half of the time in the classroom, going over the theory of BIA and the methods that make it possible, and the other half we spent working in the garden building a compost bed, a key-hole garden -which I helped build last week in the village, so I'm on my way to being an expert at it (ha...be careful of my deceiving sarcasm)- two double-dug beds, and two nurseries. I think the construction of these new structures will improve the quality of the garden and hopefully motivate the students to take just a little time everyday to maintain it. Or students can use these methods later in life when they must provide for their own family. One of the many great things about BIA is that there is a gardening method for any amount of land a person has; whether an entire field to grow many plots of vegetable or just a small patch of grass to keep a sac garden. So no matter where the students go after they finish their studies they will have the knowledge and the skills to produce food for themselves.

Teaching the Maasai Part 2

During this past week I worked in Naitolia, a Maasai village about an hour and a half West of Arsuha. We arrived Monday afternoon and met with some villagers at the village office, however there was a bit of miscommunication about time and the people had been waiting since the late morning for us. They were not able to stay longer for a lesson that day so we made plans to begin on Tuesday. Some asked if we would be providing drinks, snacks or other gifts for them during the training. Later I learned that some organizations even pay individuals to attend trainings as incentives for people to come. We explained that the gift is the education itself and if individuals wanted to improve their lives so that they and their families can be healthier and happier, then they should come. I was impressed the next day when close to twenty people (both men and women) showed up for the training.

Meanwhile myself and another volunteer went to the village secondary school to teach students. Our first day was also on Tuesday and the time frame was shortened so we did not get through as much as we hoped. Thursday, after our lesson, we were told that the students needed to prepare for national exams on Friday and there would not be time for us to finish teaching. We left frustrated knowing that the students would miss lessons on nutrition, hygiene and life skills. For thirteen and fourteen year-olds teaching life skills is an especially important component of teaching HIV/AIDS prevention. Life skills include discussing the different communication styles- passive, aggressive and assertive- and the students then practice delivering a message or reply assertively. We also teach decision making skills where the students are given scenarios in which they must go through four steps of the decision-making process to decide what choice has the most positive consequences for them. One of the scenarios we give them is a situation where a young girl becomes orphaned and must take care of her two younger siblings. Students are asked what they think the girl should do when an older man offers her money for sex, putting her at risk of HIV but providing money for which she can buy food. It is a difficult scenario that I found myself struggling with the first time I taught it this summer. Lessons like this are important to teach in a classroom setting to get the students thinking about real-life situations where there is a chance of engaging in behaviors that put them at increased risk of becoming infected with HIV. Leaving the class without teaching these lessons was hard. I hold on to the hope that they will finish reading the books we gave them at the beginning of training and learn about these lessons in life skills, as well as the hygiene and nutrition lessons they missed out on, and not use the pages as fuel for their next meal's fire. The irony of the situation adds humor to the frustration.

While the afternoons in Naitolia were a true test of flexibility and patience, the mornings proved to be very active and encouraging! Working with the Sustainable Agriculture staff, we visited the home of a Maasai farmer who had been trained in Bio-Intensive Ag earlier in the year. We arrived at his house, entering through the typical fence of large African plants, and were welcomed by him, his wife, three children and a garden filled with green plants of all different species: corn, beans, kale, cabbage, spinach, potatoes, and many others whose names I don't know. Three huts sat in the lot, one for the kitchen, another for sleeping, and a small bathroom behind the garden, away from the others. The man had built a hafir with GSC earlier this year, and it sat behind the sleeping room. The hafir was working effectively to collect water for the family to use for cooking, drinking, watering the garden and for the herd of goats fenced inside a second wooden fence about thirty feet from the kitchen and ten feet from the sleeping room. We visited this family every day of the week and helped them with additional ag projects. First we built a keyhole garden which utilizes compost and leftover water from the kitchen to nourish vegetables and fruits to feed the family. First we laid the foundation of stones and mud in a circle, two meters in diameter. The next day we layered soil, compost and manure to fill it to a heaping mound inserting tree branches vertically in the center to serve as an opening for the compost and water. After topping the soil with long grass, we let it sit overnight before planting the vegetables. The garden gets its name from the one-foot insert built on one side of the circle to allow the mama to walk close to the middle where she can dump compost and water. The climate in this part of Tanzania is extremely dry; it rains for just two months out of the year and only plants that have adapted to this climate typically grow under these arid conditions. The keyhole garden serves as a practical way to use kitchen waste while promoting the growth of fruits and vegetables that are otherwise limited. Additionally the lush green leaves that will grow from it is aesthetically pleasing for the family. This family has made an exemplary commitment to what they have learned in sustainable farming, and the healthy six month old baby that sat happily in her mother's arms is proof that dedication and commitment to these projects can work.

Unfortunately not all families are able to attend the trainings to learn these initiatives. Like the villagers expressed on our first day: they need an incentive to come to the trainings. After all, a two hour session soon turns into six for some who must walk for two hours to the village office. This time away from home may mean leaving children alone, delaying the planting or harvesting of crops, or neglecting care of the animals. In a culture where waking up the next day is not always a given, planning for the future and understanding the long-term benefits of being trained in agriculture or HIV prevention is more challenging and not as obvious as it may be for others. Despite the difference, the villagers are doing their best to provide for their families to keep them happy and healthy and carry on the rich Maasai traditions.

Knowledge is Power: Stay Health

We gathered at Poli for the last time on Saturday to celebrate the students' hard work with a graduation ceremony.  Typical to African time, we waited for two hours until the ceremony began. To pass the time I took over thirty pictures with my students (I have limited myself to posting only ten to my flickr stream). When all parties arrived, including the DJ with his gigantic speakers, the ceremony began and students, parents, teachers and volunteers filled up the chairs outside just as the rain clouds moved away to uncover the sun which left me another reminder of just how close to the equator I am, even with it being the winter months. A boy beat a bucket-drum to set the pace for a group of Scouts who marched in line to the flagpole in middle of the school grounds where we were gathered. With direction from the scouts, the students sang the national anthem as a head boy raised the flag. Next came the anthem for Poli, sung loud and strong by the students so that the catchy chorus will remain imprinted in my memory to forever remind me of these past days at Poli. Then the scouts marched away and a group of girls danced onto the center area in synchronized movement. After two dances they left to be followed by two boys who impressed the crowd with their individual dancing talents. They danced until someone in the crowd slipped a few shillings in each of their pockets, appropriate for both humor and real appreciation of their entertainment. Next a smaller group of girls danced to the middle to sing and move to a head-swaying, hand-clapping, hip-shaking song dedicated to “Our Besti Teachers.” When they were finished and the claps and hoots from the audience ceased, another large group of girls entered in step, clapping and singing to a familiar hip hop song. Following the dance routines were three skits with scenarios presenting what the students had learned during camp.

Entertainment over, it was time for the guest speakers to take the floor to explain the mission of GSC, introduce the volunteers and TZ counterparts, and thank the teachers of Poli for allowing us to come. Next a special speaker shared his words of encouragement with the students to put what they have learned to practice and further expand on the way forward with the simple phrase: “Knowledge is Power” to which students reply with one of the many comical errors of Swahili-speakers speaking English, “Stay Health.” After the speech we handed out certificates to our students to congratulate them for their hard work. This ended the formal ceremony and we proceeded to the meal: rice, cabbage, meat in sauce, kachumbari (a mixture of cucumbers, tomatoes, and onions), banana, and soda drinks. The food was delicious as always and the ceremony was enjoyable, but the best part of the day was after lunch when the students, volunteers and counterparts released their bodies to the music that had stayed present throughout the day, only pausing for speakers. For more than two hours hips swayed, bellies rolled, and feet stepped to the hip-hop and reggae that pumped into the air a spirit of absolute freedom. Older and younger siblings joined to fill the courtyard with dancing bodies. I imagined the students danced until the DJ refused to play another song, but I left before this instance occurred.

The teachers made sure to thank us before leaving and shared the enthusiasm of the students for us being there- not just to teach but to serve as role models to relay a very important message: Knowledge is Power: Stay Health.

Communication, Gender & Youth Power

After spending two weeks teaching about HIV/AIDS, health, and life skills the challenges of stigma and discrimination against those infected with HIV/AIDS and gender inequality have again proven themselves a serious reality. Throughout these two weeks we have challenged the students' views on nonviolence, gender equality and human rights. For many, these were not entirely new ideas but others remained firm in their beliefs that it is acceptable for a man to occasionally beat his wife, that men have more responsibilities than women, and that people infected with HIV/AIDS should not be allowed I the classroom, to teach or to learn.

In the classroom, the girls in general were more reluctant to answer questions than the boys. They spoke very quietly and were not likely to make eye contact with the teacher, often smiling and bowing in shyness before finishing a reply if they were so brave as to raise a hand. The day camp lesson plan included many group activities, included presentations and skits in front of the class. All students struggled with this task of speaking in front of their peers, resulting in our constant prodding for them to speak up- Sauti! Sauti! -which only caused some to become even more quiet. People here tend to speak in low tones anyway; conversations between two people are often only murmurs that cease to exchange greetings if someone enters the room or walks within close proximity. I have become extremely conscious of my own volume and the volume of conversations with other American volunteers and have quite frankly found the level and tones to be quite harsh and headache-worthy compared to the soft tones of Tanzanians.

It is interesting to observe the students' passive speaking styles which completely contradict their physical behaviors. Playing sports and games quicklyturns aggressive with pushing, hitting and tackling. This style of playing is common for both boys and girls although more extreme in boys, as is typical throughout many cultures. While conversations may be quiet and have minimal eye contact, there is more physical touching: friends of the same gender hold hands, calling a person to come includes grabbing the wrist to lead the person where to go, and setting a hand on a shoulder or around the waist is common during conversation.

At school the students have duties appropriate to their gender role: girls carry water for chai and boys bring firewood to the kitchen. All students clean the classrooms, using buckets of water to wash the floors. During a lesson on delaying pregnancy we discussed daily tasks and responsibilities, comparing this list to another with the many additional tasks of parenting. The students reported that their day begins early, for some at 5am, to wash dishes, bathe and prepare water and firewood for the day. Some have a breakfast of chai and bread or leftovers from dinner before walking to school, while others go to school without the food. School ends around 3pm and the students sometimes play sports and games or socialize with friends for a bit before returning home to gather more water, wood, wash clothes, sweep/clean, cook dinner, eat, and finally study until they can no longer stay awake. Cooking and cleaning are exclusively duties for girls, while boys help with other tasks until they have gone through puberty when in which they are expected to help with the work of their parents or the family business.

During another lesson we compared gender expectations for boys and girls. It was during this lesson that some boys expressed their belief that women have fewer responsibilities than men. However, the girls in class were ready to challenge this belief and did not take long before we had a debate between the genders about roles and expectations concerning what work is, what a man wants in a women and a woman in a man, and what one should wear. Despite their frustrations and protests, the girls remained passive in their communication style and more aggressive physically as they shook their fists or applauded in dis/agreement. The boys were more likely to speak their mind and would stand to defiantly make a point. Being in the classroom setting this debate remained under control, although only a thin line separate it from chaos.

I think the ultimate challenge of teaching is wondering if the information being learned in the classroom is being put to action when the desks are empty and students leave at the end of each day. The post-surveys proved that the majority of students understood what we taught them about HIV transmission, steps for prevention and how to make decisions that will lead to a happy, healthier life, but will the students be confident with their knowledge? Will they have enough food to eat well balanced meals and remember to boil their water to prevent water-borne illness? Will they avoid peer pressures to have sex while in their youth, during which 60% of HIV infections occur? Will the girls break the tradition of being submissive to men when they are being mentally and verbally abused? One can drive their self crazy wondering about answers to these questions. I am encouraged by a few students, particularly one determined girl who stood proudly with the scouts to sing the school anthem every morning- the only girl in the troupe of ten- she constantly took notes throughout class, was always ready to express her views when called on, and has set her goals high to be a civics and biology teacher to help improve her society. She and and a few other students are the youthful promise of change that consoles my sometimes pessimistic worries about the spread of disease, hunger, stigma and discrimination that can destroy family networks and communities in Tanzania and all around the world.

An Update Concerning Pictures and My Personal Status

I have failed to explain why uploading pictures has been such a slow process.  To begin with, the slideshow on this page was not as easy to add pictures to as I expected.  So, I created a flickr page (accessible on the left column) to show my pictures from.  However uploading pictures to my flickr photo stream is an extremely slow process with the poor internet connection that I typically have.  Since becoming more comfortable in my surrounding neighborhood, I have learned about more internet spots which has led me to my current location at a swanky tourist hotel.  Sitting in the ground level lounge, I am on the threshold that divides the inside lounge from the outside lounge, the latter which is ornamented with posh black wicker chairs holding dark orange cushions for both comfort and added decor.  Beyond the lounge lays a lush golf course with Tanzania's most beautiful trees planted in the most aesthetically pleasing positions for visitors.  The drink menu is a nightmare for people like me who cannot make decisions easily when it comes to ordering (so instead of spending countless minutes debating between drinks I have not yet tried, I surpassed the menu and ordered the consistent Chai Masala, served in a ceramic white pot with a plate of peanuts- all of this which only adds more sophistication to this luxurious setting).  

This is all a bit too much for me and I would rather not be sitting in such unnecessary comfort, but seeing that I need a strong wireless connection, I allow myself this privilege and upload the pictures as well as take time to answer emails that I have let pile up in my inbox (sorry, Mom).  Being at this hotel only reminds me of the different world that awaits for me when I fly back in August.  However, I am not yet ready to return to this world and am grateful for the five and half weeks of my stay in Tanzania that remain.  

As for the pictures- they have not been organized in the best possible way due to my rush in uploading, and the photo names may not be helpful for you to understand where they were taken.  So the order from the most recently uploaded pictures to the earliest goes as follows:

            - A hike to a waterfall on Sunday 07/01

            - Tarangire National Park (aka Safari) from my first weekend here

            - Kilimanjaro day hike from the second weekend

            - Village teaching in Engalaoni- my second week of teaching

            - Teaching at Integrity school - my first week of teaching

            - Various picture of the main office, my homestay, and the hostel I stayed at for my first few days 

I hope this helps to explain some of the pictures!  Enjoy.

Poli Shule

This is the second week I am teaching at Poli, a secondary school in a nearby village, as part of the two-week long HIV/AIDS, Health, and Life Skills Day Camp. The volunteers have been split into groups of two with one counterpart to teach 30 students per group. In total, we are educating about 180 youth. Having just finished week one, I already feel a strong connection with the students and the relationship which we are building together in the classroom. First thing in the morning, all the students gather to sing the national anthem and the school's song. Then we all disperse to our respective classrooms for teaching and games. After an hour and half there is a break, then an hour and half more of teaching before lunch. Everyday lunch is brought to the school by two women and one man who prepare it during the morning. The students are served after the teachers, translators, and staff and they are responsible for bringing their own plate. There is no cafeteria; everyone sits around the school field, a group of girls gather together behind the football goal, a handful of boys eat on the edge of the playing field by the corn growing on a nearby farm, while others take their food inside the classrooms to sit and eat. Four out of the five days we have been served some variation of rice and pinto beans with vegetables and bananas. On the exceptional day we ate makande (a local dish of cooked corn and beans) instead of rice.

I can honestly say that I have not grown tired of rice and beans despite its popularity at every roadside diner and frequency in my meals at home! All in all I have had no problem adjusting to the cuisine here, perhaps because it is similar to my diet in the States. My only struggle concerns the times of meals, particularly dinner which is preferred by my family to be eaten at 9:00 or 9:30pm. I am fortunate to have had almost thirty clif bars and a three pound bag of almonds to hold me over and now, since those are gone, a 1 kg (or 2.2 pounds) container of peanut butter and a jar of raspberry jam. Each day, I make it a little bit longer until I my body reminds me of my tendency for snacking and craves a small snack to hold me over.

When lunch is over and the students have finished washing their plates and running off some of the new food energy, we return to the classroom for seventy minutes more of lessons. At 2:45 the students gather into new groups where they practice arts, drama and music for 45 minutes in preparation for a show at the graduation ceremony where family and friends will gather to support their hard work.

After lessons today I talked with one of the science teachers who has worked at Poli for two years. The school was opened in 2009 and is government funded, meaning that students attend for free but their resources are very limited. Four rectangular buildings with classrooms sit around the center of the school lot. Two pit latrines are located behind one of the buildings and a one room “kitchen” sits to the side of the four buildings, next to the playing field. The science teacher explained that the one-walled, wooden structure with a tin roof needs more work before the kitchen is finished, and for that Poli waits for funds from the government. I asked the teacher how government schools compare to private and his answer helped to explain why the cycle of poverty is so difficult to break: in most government schools there is no library (how can you do research without books?), no science lab (how can you explain basic biology without understanding the microscope?), no computers, and sometimes no electricity even compared to the private schools which usually have all of this and more. Students who attend government schools like Poli tend to live in the same area- they may be friends, family, or at the very least the same tribe whereas private schools tend to be more diversified in where the students are from across the region. A more diverse community allows students to learn from each other in addition to learning from their teachers. As a result, students influence each other by competing for better grades, resulting in an overall stronger commitment to their studies. Furthermore, these students are more likely to excel on the national exam that is given to all students after completing their fourth year of secondary school, which thereby decides their acceptance into two more years of secondary school, and after that, a University.

Most private schools are very expensive (even after conversion to USD) so usually only those guardians with well paying jobs can ensure their children has the most conducive learning environment. The students who cannot afford private school usually also face challenges at home which further complicate their situation. Many have hours of chores and responsibilities such as getting water, cooking, cleaning, gathering firewood or taking care of younger siblings, all which may take precedence over studying and some may not have food to eat once they are home, resulting in the distracting pangs of real hunger throughout the day. But at least even these children have the privilege to an education compared to children who must stay at home and help their parents work all day instead of going to school.

These problems in education circle back to problems in the government. Considering the amount of minerals and natural resources that Tanzania is filled with and the number of national parks that caters to the tourism industry, Tanzania has great wealth. However without good leadership this wealth is not returned to the people who live here and the disparity between education opportunities grows larger. Without education, the cycle of poverty continues.

Not Just a Short Circuit

Wednesday night the electricity went out.  Now, it is not uncommon for it to flicker off for a few seconds and then resume working, but Wednesday's shortage lasted for much longer, nearly half an hour, and was caused by a much deeper problem.

My family here has interests in many different aspects of life- my Mama has a deep faith life, her son is politically aware and appreciates organic food, his wife speaks only a little English but even still we manage conversations about food, dancing, and cooking since we are often in the kitchen together and listening to music, and their daughter loves all things that happens in her thirteen-year-old life: school, friends, music, dancing, celebrity gossip, the latest fashions and all things American (a consequence of having so many American volunteers stay in their home).  Therefore my day-to-day conversations vary depending on whom I am with. 

Every morning over my breakfast of bread, jam and chai I watch the news in Swahili with my brother while he translates and updates me on everything corrupt about the current Tanzanian government.  Since Nyerere's (TZ's first president) presidency ended, things have gone downhill for the country. Recent presidents have not focused on infrastructure or justice and now Tanzania and its people are suffering.  Other African countries are coming in and taking control of farms and mines, kicking people out of their homes without a fair price or a new home for them to go to.  Unemployment is outrageously high and many NGO's are not actually meeting the needs of people who need their services the most.  Similar to other countries, those in power sit on wealth while hundreds of thousands of others live in extreme poverty.  And even many of the well-educated and respected are not being treated fairly. 
 
Over the past few weeks a group of doctors have taken leave from work to protest for fair wages.  The government has been robbing them of pay for overtime, coverage of transportation costs, and a low wage overall in proportion to the services they provide.  On Wednesday the doctor leading this small movement was beaten, and the evening news was relaying the story.  Coincidentally, just as the news story began the electricity flickered off.  Not the least bit surprised, my brother explained this happens all the time when stories reporting the government's (or those connected) outrageous behaviors  come on the news.  He said that he wouldn't be surprised if the electricity was off throughout all of Arusha since the city consists mostly of people who support the opposing party.

Presidential terms last for ten years, and the next election is in 2015.  According to my brother, the current president did not win the election in 2005, but a ponsy government scheme worked to place him in the position anyway.  If the opposing party's candidate is not elected in 2015, my brother warned that the Tanzanian people will stand for it no longer and action will be taken.

Do other countries have anything to do with the people who are suffering? Yes. Both America and UN leaders are investing in Tanzania, believing the superficial headlines that brag about it being such a peaceful country (headlines even I believed before coming here).  With a new discovery of natural gas and a plethora of valuable jewels available not far into TZ's mines, America and European countries can come up with lots of reasons to choose not to investigate the actual state of the country and continue sending blind aid in return for these precious resources to further fuel the greed that drives too many international political relationships.  Too bad UN, American and European leaders don't see that this “aid” is further sagging the pockets of a few round-bellied government officials while the majority of others run around in circles, bone-thin, limited to the daily chores of gathering water, firewood and food, all the while dodging potholes, thieves, and disease that could be better controlled but instead threaten their survival every day. 

Call me cynical, pessimistic, or fed-up.  It impossible for me to only talk about what is good when so many injustices surround me.


Too bad news like this doesn't make it to America's headlines.

Kilimanjaro

On Saturday most of the volunteers got together to climb Mount Kilimanjaro. My kaka (brother) has a friend who guides visitors on hikes and safaris so he and three friends rented a bus to take us all to the national park. Kili is about an hour and a half from Arusha so we left at an early 7:00am. I took my coffee to-go and as a result got many stares from the people we passed as we walked to the meeting point. In Tanzania, people take time to finish a meal rather than rushing and eating on the go. So my traveler's mug further distinguished me as a muzungu.

When we arrived at the bottom of the mountain we prepared for our hike. The electronic credit card system was not working correctly and the park officials were having trouble processing the prepaid card our guides arranged for us. Two hours later, at 11:00am, we finally began our journey. The hike to the first base camp was strenuous. The incline was steep and I could feel as my body reacted to the change in altitude trying to maintain itself, but it was easy to stay motivated with a green, lush jungle surrounding me on both sides of the path. Baboons and Colobus monkeys entertained us with their presence and the aged trees never ceased to taunt me with their strong vines for swinging or thick branches for climbing. I will admit that nearly half of my pictures are of these jungle trees. At the top of our climb we reached a crater, formed over 100,000 years ago. We stumbled down to its center point where the dormant volcano lay silent beneath. What an incredible feeling to stand on top of mountain that could at any minute burst with hot lava and shower everything with ash! Of course this volcano is probably not likely to erupt for another 100,000 years or so, so flaming balls of lava was the least of my concerns.

Going down the mountain was much easier, and we made it to the bottom in just two hours- half the time it took to ascend. It was sad to leave this beautiful mountain but I can always dream of climbing it to the peak at nearly 20,000 ft (if my conversions are correct) someday. Until then, I am at peace with the 8858 ft of the majesty that I explored on this day.

Teaching the Maasai

It is important to find a balance between respecting cultural values and traditions while maintaining a firm stance on health and nutrition. This week I learned much about Maasai culture through the questions they asked during the lessons and the conversations we had with locals going to and from the village. Maasai culture is a patriarchal society where women are expected to be obedient and submissive to men. The men have many wives and each live in a separate hut around his, so the hill side is dotted with these plots of four, five or more huts. Women's roles include caring for the children, cooking, cleaning, selling produce (if surplus is grown), gathering water for the day (also a task for children), and gathering firewood....every day. Other tasks, many which are also daily, include nursing the sick in the family, milking cows, and tending to the gardens and fields (including planting, weeding, and harvesting).

Men are responsible for hunting, maintaining leadership roles in the community, providing protection, and caring for the cows. In Maasai culture, all cows are believed to belong to the Maasai and a man's wealth and respect in the community is dependent upon the number of cows he owns. Since it is up to women to milk the cows (in fact it is shameful for a man or boy to perform this job) a wealthy man will have many wives to keep up with the milking of his cows.

On the journey to and from the village we have passed many boys who stand out from other villagers: they are dressed all in black and have painted black faces with white designs over their eyes and cheeks. These boys are going through the circumcision ceremony- a special event that takes place every seven years for boys ages 12 to 22, to celebrate their change into manhood. First there is the circumcision ceremony where the boys are dressed in all black and their faces are painted dark with white designs. After the circumcision, a goat is killed and its blood is mixed with milk, one batch is boiled and one is not, and the circumcised boys drink the liquid. Then, some boys continue on to become Maasai warriors and are sent to the bush for six months for their training. When they return they are to marry a Maasai women thereby completing their transition into a warrior.

Meat is the staple of Maasai diet. During our teaching one man admitted killing three goats for just two men (and with the lack of electricity it is doubtful these goats were frozen or dehydrated to last them for a reasonable, extended period). Others smirked in disbelief when I explained that some people choose not to eat meat and use beans as their primary source of protein. Throughout all of the teaching about nutrient deficiencies, the importance of breast-feeding, malnutrition, and eating a balanced diet they were acutely attentive and interested in every bit of information and followed the lesson with questions about what pregnant women and children in particular need to consume. In their culture, men tend to only ask how the child is doing and not actually look at the baby. Therefore, some men explained they did not even know if their babies were healthy or not. This lead into a lesson on communication between men and women and the importance of a man staying with a woman after she becomes pregnant.

When it came to teaching about overall health and hygiene, there was shock when we explained that the body can tell us if we are healthy or not. After describing different ways to check if you are eating a balanced diet (checking fingernails, toenails, hair, urine, stools, eye color, etc) someone exclaimed, “But we don't do that!” There are only pit latrines in the village. The one closest to us was a small wooden shanty built around a hole. A small amount of light comes through the cracks between the boards, but everything that goes into the hole is lost in a mass of darkness. So the question they challenged us with was, “How are we supposed to check our urine and stools?” We thought a bit, considered the absence of TP, and decided that the conversation could too easily turn into a uncomfortable interrogation about private behaviors. Modesty is key in Maasai culture, and questioning a group about their excretory habits was both invasive and inappropriate in our setting, although it did stir up laughter as we discussed.

In fact there were many bouts of roaring laughter throughout the week with the Maasai. Talking about some of the 'untouched topics' like sex, disease, and health can build a unique bond between people. Everyday they prayed a blessing over us and continuously thanked us for coming to their village. But the honor was all ours and thank yous were coming from us just as frequently as from them.

At the end of Friday's session we handed out certificates and shared with them chocolate cookies; it was the least we could do thank them for the incredible insight they shared with us.

Elephants and Lions

This week I am teaching at Engalawony Village, about an hour out of Arusha.  To reach the village office, sitting in the center of the village, we drove down narrow paths on a bumpy dirt road over hills, through a jungle, and past dozens of men, women and children who stared at the foreign land cruiser and covered their faces with khanga wraps and blankets as the vehicle left behind clouds of thick dust. All plants, animals, and humans had a blanket of dust covering them (even before we passed) and those of us inside the vehicle had only a slight privilege to those outside.  The landscape we passed was like a dream: valleys of green fields lay between pointed hills, crops grew on the hillsides, laced with African plants and trees that distinguished one plot from the next; after a dark cloud passed the sun shone into the valley, rays brightening the world before it; herds of cattle and goats dotted the open land followed obediently by little boys or young men, while women carried tree branches twice the length of their bodies atop their heads and small girls guided barrels of water for the day's use. 

At the top of the hill at the village office we met our students for the week.  Thirty individuals dressed in traditional Maasai clothing, ranging from 16 to 50 years in age, sat in a semi-circle on the grass with the green valleys and hills laying the backdrop for our afternoon.  They greeted us with a warm welcome and remained focused and interested as we covered the material.  The day provided an entirely different setting of both students and environment compared to last week!  Questions arose as we explained the basic biology of HIV/AIDS; some wondered how bacteria is killed compared to viruses, others wanted to know why there is no cure for HIV. 

To help students visualize how HIV affects the immune system we do an activity called “Elephants and Lions.” In the demonstration one volunteer stands as a baby elephant, and six individuals surround the baby.  They are the adult elephants and are responsible or protecting the baby.  Four more volunteers stand outside of these elephants as lions.  The baby elephants is symbolic of the body, the adults as its immune system, and the lions as opportunistic infections such as the flu, malaria, TB, etc.  When given the instruction, the lions try to touch the baby elephant, and the adults try to protect the baby from being touched.  This demonstrates the role of the immune system in protecting the body from diseases.  Then the moderator acts as HIV, and removes half of the adult elephants.  Now the remaining three must try to defend the baby on their own.  As the activity continues, it is much more difficult to fight off the opportunistic infections when HIV infects a person because it destroys the person's immunity. 

This game is extremely helpful in explaining a critical part of HIV infections.  People do not die from HIV.  HIV destroys the immune system which heightens the risk of other infections and prevents the body's ability to fight them on its own, oftentimes resulting in death.  This explanation is usually received with a look of surprise and a nod of understanding from the students.  It is critical that people understand this in order to see the purpose of staying healthy and taking special precautions to prevent other diseases if one does become infected with HIV.

Safari Adventure

Even in Africa I can only take so much of the city life before I need a break from the hustle and bustle and wish myself away to a quiet place where plants and animals abound. I thank my country upbringing for this need for nature.  For the first time in my life I was able to successfully wish myself into a place of absolute wilderness when our group stole away to Tarangire National Park.  Words nor pictures can do justice to the beauty of the Earth that I was treated to.  Herds of zebras, caribou, and elephants, packs of wildabeasts and wild boars, lizards, birds, small Timone-like critters, and a lone giraffe all gifted us with their presence in this park.  Land undisturbed by humans stretched for miles all around us with only the small path ahead reminding me that many have traveled here before.  The hot sun shone all day and I simply leaned back as the jeep bounced over rocks and rots, stopping to let the occasional herd of zebras or boars pass.  Of all the animals in the park the majestic elephants came closest to the jeep, and give us a menacing glare as warning to take care not to pass too close to their young, supporting the threat with their massive trunks swinging to and fro.  Between the talking, laughing and smiling, I added about a pound of dust to the white bread and rice that seems to always sit in my stomach here, and my Sunday shampoo the next morning was a bit too harsh for my tender scalp burned from the day's direct exposure.  I returned to the city exhausted, but successfully centered and ready to begin another week.

Unanswered Questions

Today was the last day of teaching this group of students at Integrity School.  Next week two sets of GSC volunteers and counterparts will return to Integrity to teach another group of students while two other sets, of which I am a part of, will travel to Maasai villages and teach adults the same materials.  Training students this week as helped to prepare me for next week's teaching.  As the week progressed the students asked us many difficult questions about HIV transmission, nutrient deficiencies, Maasai traditions, and religious perspectives of AIDS and other diseases.  Being only students ourselves, we left many of these questions unanswered.  After a lesson on the importance of educating people about the 'ABCs' of HIV prevention one student asked, “But how can we change the behaviors of the wealthy and educated who still engage in risky behavior and become infected with or further spread HIV?”  I stole a moment to let it sink in that this young man was thinking about HIV on a much different level- a level reached by living in a country where HIV affects one in sixteen adults and about two million children have lost one or both parents who were infected.  It is ironic that HIV does not discriminate against age, sex, education level, or economic status while those that HIV infects face stigma and discrimination from family, friends, employers, and entire communities.  The student's question reflects a need to motivate society to bring about a change in culture that improves life and acknowledges the dignity of every person by changing dangerous habits and behaviors that increase the spread of HIV.  I am finishing a book by Helen Epstein called The Invisible Cure: Africa, the West, and the Fight Against AIDS.  Epstein is an anthropologist who spent many of her African years in Uganda where she studied why the country was able to dramatically reduce the number of HIV infections, while HIV rates sharply increased in other countries around the world.  HIV reduction was successful in Uganda because of a focus on the 'B' in the HIV prevention teaching method: 'ABCs' (Abstinence, Be Faithful, Correct and consistent condom use).  Epstein suggests that stressing the importance of 'B' in any society may be the key to curing this disease that has taken so many lives. 

Returning to the student's question: how can we...how can I teach people to change harmful behaviors? 

This week was my first experience ever with teaching in front of a class  Standing in front of the room with chalk in my hand I scanned the sets of eyes staring back, watching every movement I made, thinking about the thoughts that were repeating back every word spoken (by the Swahili translator counterpart).  From the front of the classroom there is a different perspective of education.  It becomes more than a means or an interest, it becomes a revelation of power and thus a force that empowers.  My understanding of Tanzanian culture has only just begun, and reaching conclusions about the root causes of the poverty and corruption that exists here will take the weeks ahead for me to reach.  Providing solutions to these problems and answers to the student's questions will take much longer and cannot be answered by myself alone.  These questions about the world's problems normally bring me much distress.  At last, I have found a new peace with myself by doing the small bit of educating I can here in Tanzania to empower others, even if many of the questions remain unanswered.

Muhogo, Mua and Khanga

It takes two trips for the jeep to take all GSC staff (volunteers and counterparts) from Integrity School back to the main office and today I was part of the second group. After the first group left we walked to the shop stands near the school in Moshono village and dined on muhogo (grilled cassava root with chili sauce for dipping) and parachichi (avocado).  Cassava is a new and exciting food for me.  This was the third time I have had it in Tanzania and I am intrigued by its cooking potential.  It has only been prepared grilled for me so far, but my sister told me it can also be boiled and used in many other dishes.  With a crispy exterior (when grilled) and a soft interior, cassava tastes similar to a well baked potato although sweeter and having a much thicker texture.  If too much is chewed at once, it becomes a bit chalky so taking small bites and dipping it in chili sauce is the best way to enjoy it.  Already I am dreaming up different ways it could be prepared: stir-fried with peas and carrots; diced and cooked with beans; dipped in a peanut sauce; or maybe chopped in bite-size pieces and served in tomato soup.  However I think carbohydrates is its only nutritional value, so although tasty, it does not add variety to the starchy diet I have acquired here.

After our snack we began walking the dirt road back to Arusha alongside the corn fields, passing by men following herds of cattle and women carrying the day's crops on their heads.  The cold season is here and I go to bed and wake up slightly chilled, but during the afternoon the warm equatorial sun beats down, tanning my arms, neck and scalp.  After the jeep picked us up we pulled over to purchase muwa (sugar cane) from a man walking away from town.  The man chopped and peeled a large piece and handed it through the back window to my friend next to me.  He handed the machete through the window and my friend sliced through the plant to divide enough pieces for the car load, skillfully stopping the blade after cutting the plant before it reached my thighs beneath.  To eat muwa one must bite the stalk, tear off a piece of pulp and suck on the pulp until the liquid is gone, chewing helps to speed this step.  The pulp is then removed from the mouth by spitting and another piece is ripped and the action continues until the entire stalk has been devoured.  I have seen many Tanzanians enjoying this sugary plant and am still impressed by the skill and ease of which they can bite, suck/chew, and spit.

Back at the office the staff of GSC gave each volunteer a khanga wrap.  Khanga wraps are worn by women as skirts, dresses, hair coverings, scarves, or shawls.  They are a good covering for pants, especially in villages where women are expected to be covered from shoulders to calves with loose-fitting clothes, or else risk appearing promiscuous.  In the town it is not unusual to see women walking in pants or knee-length skirts, but never shorts.  My sister agreed to help fashion me with the many styles of the khanga since I barely managed the simple skirt-like wrap around the waist without it falling.  She promised that it will not take long for me to master the stylish hair wraps- complete with flowers and ties that some women model for an ordinary day of work- with her assistance, that is.

Teaching Day One- 11.06.2012

This week we will teach students at a college in Arushatown. We drove twenty minutes out of the city to the school, which appeared to be in a small village of its own.  The drive was my first view of the rural areas and the scenery characteristic to pictures of Africa:  corn fields lined the road on either side, homes of concrete with tin roofs and buildings of wood and grass were set back a bit, hills of green grass and trees dotting the landscape, people walking along a well beaten path- some Maasai, characterized by gauged ears and walking sticks, some women in traditional Kanga wraps skillfully carrying baskets on their heads, and some of either gender (mostly men) walking in slacks and well-ironed shirts- a faint outline of mountains providing the backdrop for it all.  Our jeep rolled over the dirt roads, bumping over ruts and rocks- the daggers of death for tires here.  One tire did not survive the journey and upon arrival it was clear why this ride was particularly bumpy. 

There were three schools in the village: a nursery school, a primary school, and the college where we were to teach.  The college and nursery occupied several connected buildings, yellow and plain with their names painted in dark red on the front side. The primary school was across the street: a long concrete building with iron bars decorating the windows, gray against the brown dirt lawn and dull to the green plants and trees surrounding.  It appeared to be vacant from afar, until a door opened and children ran out, screaming with delight.  Their purple uniforms were a trickle of brightness, seeping through the scene as they ran about the yard, waving and laughing when they saw us watching.  A few dared to come so close as to hide in a ditch fifty feet away and poked their heads up to peek when our own heads turned away.

Minutes later the nursery school released their kids too, and tiny legs carried miniature bodies across the lawn in front of us, bringing forth a stream of shining faces, bright with smiles and producing shrieks of delight that comes with recess and the excitement of seeing friendly strangers standing by their playground.  A few had the courage to come close to wave and one girl was brave enough to share a hug with one of us visitors. These precious children were not the reason for our visit though, so we moved inside the college to meet the students we were to teach. 

Last week we assigned to groups consisting of three American volunteers and one Tanzanian counterpart who serves as a translator and assistant for the teaching.  Each group was then assigned to one classroom of 20 students.  After our teaching, these 18 to 25 year-old college students will proceed to train others in the areas of HIV/AIDS, Life Skills and Nutrition. The teaching schedule is as follows:

Day 1- basic biology of HIV/AIDS and the immune system, modes of transmission, disease prevention as well as communication life skills;

Day 2- HIV prevention, gender and culture roles and issues related to HIV;

Day 3- information about testing and treatment, an overview of Sexually Transmitted Infections (STI), human rights, stigma and discrimination, and decision-making life skills;

Day 4- nutrition education, and information about how to eat a balanced diet;

Day 5- hygiene education, special nutrition practices for women and children, and malnutrition.

We will teach this group of students for about three hours a day for one week and move to another school next week.

Many of the students already had a basic understanding of HIV/AIDS.  They were sure of certain facts about the virus such as the age of those commonly infected, the prevalence of HIV in the global community, and the stigma that is associated with those infected.  However there were still many questions concerning religious beliefs and HIV, how the disease is transmitted, and many questions about the biology of HIV, its progression into AIDS, and why there is not yet a cure.  I think many of these students even know the answers and truth behind the myths of the disease, but their questions suggest that others in their networks have not received enough education to properly keep themselves safe and free of disease- a classic health problem that occurs not just in Tanzania, but all around the world. The purpose of our teaching is to help dispel the myths and stigma associated with those infected with HIV and emphasize the steps a person can take to keep her or him and their loved ones safe and healthy.